Albert Roux praises local chefs

Jul 23 2010 by Gordon Bannerman, Perthshire Advertiser Friday

ST Andrews was hogging the limelight last weekend but it’s another of Scotland’s legendary golf courses which always triggers a battle royal for accommodation.

The Open Championship returns to Muirfield in 2013 and golf fans seeking the inside track to spot a potential champion would be well advised to scan the guest list at Greywalls.

The gorgeous Edwardian country house overlooks the famous East Lothian links’ 10th tee and a succession of winners have been cosseted within its luxurious, honey-hued walls.

But while it’s R and A officials who call the shots when the Open makes for Muirfield, otherwise the welcome mat is rolled out to guests, whether golfers or non-believers, at a family-owned retreat 40 minutes from Edinburgh.

And when it comes to courses, discerning Greywalls’ diners are now being tempted by legendary three Michelin starred French chef, Albert Roux, who has unveiled his “Chez Roux at Greywalls.”

Mindful of the Auld Alliance, Roux flies the flag proudly for Scotland and delights in seeing a new generation of chefs emerging, including Andrew Fairlie and Tom Kitchin. Their roots may be in Perth and Kinross but their philosophies have been influenced by their Gallic cousins, and la famille Roux, in particular.

Over a sumptuous lunch at his latest venture, Albert observed: “Andrew is one of our boys. He was the first to win the Roux scholarship and has done very well. He’s a lovely man.

“We spotted talent in this young man from Scotland, who shone among all others. He was keen on French cuisine and we gave Andrew an opportunity in a three star Michelin environment. He took advantage of that and the rest is history. We do open doors but it is up to scholars to walk through them.

“Andrew was one of the forerunners of a new generation, now including Martin Wishart and Tom Kitchin. It’s great to see so many young boys and girls from Scotland serving apprenticeship abroad and coming back to fly the flag.”

The Roux mantra is “fresh, local produce” and Albert chided: “For generations you didn’t know what you had here. It took the French to tell you! You were blind to what was on doorstep. Thankfully that has all changed.”

Bordeaux-born Albert recalled sourcing pike from France in the early days of his pioneering London restaurant, discovering the product was making a return trip across the Channel, having originally been dispatched from Scotland

“I have loved Scotland, from my youth. We French have a close affinity with the Scots and in my case it had much to do with the rugby. Perhaps it is because we are both Celts. Whoever wins the rugby, we enjoy a singsong together after the game. No fighting. I love rugby. Along with cooking, it has been my passion.”

With the corridors of Greywalls paying tribute to Nicklaus, Trevino, Watson, Norman, Faldo and other golfing legends who have carved their own Open Championship tales a mere wedge shot away from the table, Albert observed: “This is a unique house and this is an exciting project. The fine architecture and the beauty of the gardens is irresistible.

“I did golf for several years but sadly now my leg will not support me. Muirfield is special. My only regret is that ladies are not allowed. I think that should change, I really do.”

While that may or may not be on the menu for Muirfield, Albert observed that he held no truck with elitism in his restaurants, although a special room devoted to the dram offers more than the chef’s favoured 20-year-old Islay malt.

“The cooking here is typical French middle upper class, nothing too ostentatious. We have enjoyed a good family-style lunch. I don’t want to be elitist. No, no, no,” he protested. “That’s why we have priced it very carefully. I want villagers and people from further afield to come, even if it is just once or twice a year. I don’t want them to be frightened off.

“Our mission is to put this house on the culinary map of the world. But it would be a failure if we can’t attract a local clientel.

“More than 90% of the produce will be Scottish, so don’t ask for strawberries at Christmas, or asparagus in August. You are blessed in this country and the envy of Europe. We get our mushrooms from the Gleneagles area and the best raspberries are from Scotland. No longer is this a gastronomic desert.”