Spiritual side of organic wine making

Oct 3 2008 by Alison Lowson, Perthshire Advertiser Friday

BIO-DYNAMIC farming was pioneered by an Austrian, Rudolf Steiner, in the 1920s. As a farming method, it embodies the ecological self-sufficiency of, dare we say, more conventional methods of organic farming, but, includes an ethical-spiritual philosophy as well as astrological considerations.

The adherents of bio-dynamics see the farm as an organism and the various constituent elements; the soil, the compost, the pests and weeds, the seed production, the crops and animals, and the farmer, are all integral parts of the whole.

The cornerstones of bio-dynamic agriculture are the nine preparations prescribed by Steiner to aid fertilisation, one of the preparations, aimed at improving the richness of topsoil, is made by filling a cow horn with cow manure and burying it in the ground in the autumn, it is then left to decompose over the winter, recovered in springtime to be diluted in spring water and sprayed on the fields.

The jury is still very much out on the efficacy of these techniques and numerous studies have been conducted resulting in conflicting conclusions. However, bio-dynamic farming is being practiced in over 50 counties worldwide, and as far as wine-making is concerned, there are over 450 producers working to bio-dynamic standards.

While many people may view the practice with a healthy degree of scepticism, it cannot be denied that producers employing these methods are not using any chemical fertilisers or pesticides and are not, therefore, in it for quick money.

The proof, as they say, is in the pudding and here are two wines that we can recommend, produced on bio-dynamic estates.

Firstly, from Alvaro Espinoza’s Emiliana Orgánico estate in Chile, Adobe Colchagua Valley Syrah (£7.45, The Smart Good Food Shop), Espinoza’s commitment to bio-dynamics is well documented and his reputation as a wine maker is fast growing, this wine is extremely well made, full of pure black cherry and plum fruit flavours.

Secondly, a high quality Loire Valley white, Plouzeau produce Chateau de la Bonnelière AOC Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (£7.95), with sprightly citrus fruit, a peachy mid-palate and a crisp clean finish this is an excellent wine from France’s premier sauvignon blanc region.

lJames and Eva own The Smart Good Food deli in Perth.