Almondbank Inn: Traditional pub gives it all large with food

Feb 22 2008 By Lady Who Lunches

THERE are various milestones on the path to becoming your parents.

Scoffing at the latest offerings from Top of the Pops, before they pulled the plug, and chortling at the latest fashions happened in our household long ago. Personally, I blame rap music.

But now we’re venturing well into the realms of middle age with occasional Sunday drives around Perthshire’s scenic back roads.

It’s hardly exploration to stir the blood of Bear Grylls, Sir Ranulph Fiennes or even tousled Taransay survivor Ben Fogle, who seems to pop up on every other channel these days.

Incidentally, what is it with public schoolboys and their obsession with frozen wastelands, inhospitable mountains and impenetrable jungles? Shall we put it down to “Biggles Flies Undone” and other colourful tales of derring-do and jolly japes from their childhoods?

Anyway, we prefer a sat nav to a compass to forge a trail through the Big County’s highways and byways.

While the beginning and end of the journey is in tablets of stone, these Sabbath sojourns tend to evolve into magical mystery tours, taking in everything from the famous old yew tree at Fortingall to the seasonal birdlife at Vane Farm since the turn of the year. Which explains why we alighted from the chariot in Almondbank in search of sustenance.

The village has been hogging the headlines of late, what with all the hoo-hah over the future of the DARA complex. But unlike Baroness Taylor, we found time to pop into the Almondbank Inn during our visit.

It’s a good, old-fashioned village local and Other Half reliably informs me the Black Stuff is amongst the best you’ll find this side of Dublin. And, the veteran of countless rugby weekends in the other Fair City – with another looming this weekend – he regards himself as something of an expert on the famous stout. I settled for a glass of lager.

With mine host Irene’s hubbie Tommy Campbell coaching St Johnstone youngsters, there’s a distinct football theme in the busy bar. Other Half assures me the various signed shirts, including scrawls by chaps called Giggs and Veron, are of great interest to sports fans. Personally, I’d prefer George Clooney memorabilia.

Decanting next door, the restaurant overlooks the River Almond so there’s plenty to keep you occupied if the conversation flags. The retro look includes intriguing black and white pictures of the long-gone St John’s Square and South Street when two-way traffic was the order of the day.

Other Half devoured the good old fashioned Liver, Bacon and Onions – and it lived up to exacting standards set by his favourite chef. His mum! I tucked into the Haddock and Chips, with veg and salad. A word of caution. Both portions were vast. As had been the starters, with Garlic Mushrooms and an ocean of delicious Chicken and Sweetcorn Soup served with chunks of fresh bread ideal comfort food at this time of year.

Absolutely no chance of cramming in a pud so it was back to base camp to snooze away what was left of the Sabbath, stirring in time for our date with Ski Sunday.

Venue: The Almondbank Inn, Almondbank

Cost: £23 for two, including a Guinness and half of lager

Food: Decent pub grub with something for everyone

Service: Cheerful and polite

Decor: Traditional with picture windows

Verdict: Huge portions but weekend food only until spring.