Lion and Unicorn: The Lion’s share of fabulous pub grub

Jun 6 2008 by Lady Who Lunches

LET me tell you a little bit about my friend Natalie. Tall, blonde, fabulous and 41, she's been married twice and never met a millionaire she didn't like. Well up till now!

After property magnate husband #2 bit the dust – an unfortunate ‘Jude Law and the nanny’ type incident was to blame – Nat insisted she was finished with men for good.

The girls and I gave it six months, so we weren't surprised to hear that Nat had "snared" a new man, and even less surprised to be summoned to the Lion and Unicorn to inspect the goods!

In case your are feeling sorry for the gentleman in question, let me put your mind a ease by saying that our scrutiny was limited to a brief glimpse through the hotel window, before a rather buff 'Jeffrey' roared off in Nat's top-of-the-Range Rover for a golfing date with the boys.

"I think it's the real thing this time," sighed a somewhat giddy Natalie.

"He's tanned, terrific and only 25!" Also turned out that he's the [penniless] tennis pro at Nat's extremely upmarket health club.

Something tells me this one's not a keeper either!

Since it was such a glorious day, we ditched the 'olde worlde' interior to dine al fresco on the terrace behind the hotel.

Designer sunnies firmly clamped to our faces, we ordered four glasses of vino (anything as long as it's cold, white, dry and New World), while we pored over the extensive menu.

The L&U gets a mention in most of the "Best of..." guides, and it's no accident.

The charming Stirlingshire village of Thornhill is a beautiful setting, the staff are fast and efficient, plus the food is freshly-cooked, nicely-presented, and served in generously-sized portions.

The restaurant is famed for its steaks, but the girls and I felt that all that red meat was a little too much for a hot Sunday in June.

Instead, two chicken and leek pies were ordered, along with a portion of the chef's own-recipe homemade lasagne, and a prawn and smoked salmon salad platter.

Tina and Tory reported that the pie was as good as it looked.

Chopped chicken breast was sauted with fresh leeks, served in a mild, creamy sauce, and topped with feather-light puff pastry.

My lasagne was good, but rather heavy on the bechamel sauce.

That said, it was attractively presented with a seasonal salad, and I wolfed down every last, highly-calorific mouthful. Nat – who's watching her weight – pushed most of her salad round her plate.

To be fair, mounds of grated cheese and potato salad somewhat overwhelmed the delicate flavours of the prawns and smoked salmon.

All the main courses are served with either chips or potatoes, salad or seasonal vegetables (a good mix of mange-tout, courgettes, cauliflower and new potatoes)

Two chocolate chip cookie sundaes, a white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake, and a cheese plate rounded off proceedings, washed down with espressos.

While the cheese plate and the sundaes got the thumbs up, the cheesecake was the star of the show.

Obviously homemade, and smothered in a tangy coolis, we all dipped our spoons in!

The Lion and Unicorn is Scottish pub food at its best. Everything is freshly-prepared, attractively-presented, and well-priced.

Definitely worth a visit.

The Place: Lion & Unicorn Country Hotel, Main Street, Thornhill, Stirling.

Food: Pub grub at its very best.

Service: Fast and friendly.

Decor: Olde-worlde, with wonderful inglenook fireplaces. Plus outside seating for sunny days.

Price: £59.70 (for four).