Baxters, Kelty: Heart-warming offering

Nov 28 2008 by Lady Who Lunches

THE BRACING blast of winter weather we shivered our way through at the weekend brought back memories of a ski trip from my more svelte winter sport days.

Back in the dark days when one-piece ski romper-suits were stylish and when Chuck, Di and the kids would head off to Klosters, the Other Half and I headed Alp-side with a group of friends to spend a festive season somewhere we could be assured of a white Christmas.

Every Christmas when I pen a card to the chap who ensured our chalet was stocked with hearty hot food and endless beverages to bring a warming glow to the end of the day, I remember those heady days of a little bit of graceful parallel-turning on the white stuff to justify a hearty helping of apres-ski.

Young Justin had spent his student winter holidays as a chalet hand in France and the lucky lad landed the dozen of us during his first season.

Still in touch through the communication medium that is the Christmas card, last weekend’s shivery spell prompted me to give him a call to reminisce on old times.

Working these days in Edinburgh as a personal shopper, Justin agreed to meet me halfway for a spot of lunch and we decided on the former Kathellan spot, now falling under the Baxter’s banner, just off the M90 south of Kinross.

And true to form as I pulled off the motorway the reunion was marked with a ceremonial flurry of snow.

The cosy, wooden clad interior of the restaurant revoked the spirit of our chalet spectacular all those years ago and thankfully the offerings on the menu looked likely to be tastier than some of Justin’s early attempts back in the day when chicken Kiev and Black Forest gateau washed down with advocaat were considered cutting-edge continental offerings.

But during our holiday of yesteryear Justin ensured his diners were well marinaded in Black Tower or gluvine so we didn’t mind a dot.

Thankfully no need for such Dutch courage at the pretty spot we’d picked for lunch, a tasty menu to pick from which boasted Scottish classics such as Cullen skink and hearty helpings of haggis, neaps and tatties.

But for me it was the luxury fish cakes which caught my eye while Justin opted for a venison burger.

In a contrast to our alcohol-laden winter holiday, I selected fruit juice to wash down proceedings while it was a sparkling water that tickled Justin’s tastebuds: “Detoxing ahead of the party season dear,” he said when I raised an eyebrow.

The crispy fish cakes were suitably filled with fruits of the sea, served with a huge snowdrift of lemon mayonnaise, a few potatoes and a little spattering of lovely coleslaw and side salad.

Justin gave his lunch a huge thumbs-up. A big juicy deer burger with a spread of chutney sandwiched in a soft bun served with chunky chips and a similar accompaniment of side salad.

Suitably fuelled up on food and gossip we went our separate ways: Justin heading to the on-site shop to work off his lunch while I liberated my labs Winston and Ted for a bracing walk in the beautiful Blairadam Forest next door.

Venue: Baxters, Cocklaw Mains Farm, Kelty (just off junction four of the M90, signposted Kathellan Farm Park) .

Food: Home-cooking style of meals.

Decor: Warm, welcoming and woody.

Service: Attentive, friendly and efficient.

Price: £19.75 for two lunches and soft drinks.