Dinner at Kinnaird is like stepping into the pages of Poirot

Mar 6 2009 by Lady Who Lunches

DINING at Kinnaird is like stepping back in time and finding yourself in a Poirot novel.

As I sunk into a wonderfully overstuffed couch to sip my pre-dinner champers in front of the roaring fire, I half expected an ear-splitting shriek to silence Aleksander Kudajczyk’s Chopin recital, and the army of uniformed staff to dash to the assistance of “Miss Peach” who had been done to death (Cluedo-style) in “The Library”, with “The Candlestick”.

No such luck, but such flights of fancy are understandable considering the seductive luxury of what must surely be one of the best hotels anywhere in the UK.

Other Half and I were in this Highland Perthshire hideout ostensibly to hear AK’s Chopin recital, but decided to push the boat out with dinner and an overnight stay. Who says romance is dead?

AK’s beautiful music set the scene for a memorable dinner, courtesy of Head Chef Jean-Baptiste Bady, who was, just this week, named Head Chef of the Year.

The elegant three AA rosette restaurant entices guests with the seasonal Table D'Hôte Menu, a choice of a six-course Tasting Menu and the ‘Smoked Tasting Menu’.

While complementing the cuisine is an international wine cellar, ranging from classic French châteaux to the finest wines the New World has to offer, overseen by Food and Beverage Manager, Max Schaeflein.

On the recommendation of his charming wife Anne, the House Manager, we both started with the eponymous Kinnaird Salad. This beautifully light, seasonal salad of crisp leaves, steamed vegetables and quails’ eggs, sharpened the appetite beautifully for the task ahead.

I then plumped for the Halibut which was served with a mouthwatering ravioli accompaniment. Other Half ordered Jean-Baptiste’s signature lobster extravaganza, with ceps and baby leeks, which didn’t disappoint.

Puddings were equally successful with the melting hot chocolate fondant slightly pipping my selection of caramel inspired deserts.

The whole shooting match was washed down by a perky Gewürztraminer, two stiff Ballantines and ginger ale, and coffee served in a silver jug.

Fans of the chi-chi (but quite delicious) amuse busch will be delighted to hear that JP serves not one but THREE of these tempting little snistrums, not to mention a selection of light-as-air, freshly-baked, bread rolls.

The dinner, bed and breakfast experience doesn’t come cheap, but it’s worth every penny for a special occasion.