Service to guarantee many happy returns

May 1 2009 by Lady Who Lunches

WHEN childhood sweetheart and I were courting (now there’s a quaint, old-fashioned word), Mother claimed she did not worry what we were up to because there was inevitably a dining table between us.

Decades later, food still plays a huge part in our relationship, so as a birthday treat, I decided to take Other Half for lunch at Martin Wishart’s award-winning restaurant in trendy Leith.

I booked on their website and was asked to indicate any dietary requirements. An email in reply assured me these would be conveyed to the kitchen staff.

Have you been to Leith recently? Parking is a nightmare on the narrow, congested one way streets. Eventually we abandoned the car, fervently hoping we would not be adding the price of a fine to an expensive treat of a lunch.

For such a famed establishment, the restaurant presents a very discreet frontage, which we nearly missed.

The greeting was warm and genuine and we were led to a spacious table for two. The décor is subtle and warm, featuring wood and mirrors, which suggests more space than there actually is. Tables are well spaced and the classical music is very unobtrusive.

On offer are two tasting menus, including one for vegetarians and a three course lunch menu at £24.50. In these straitened times, we, like everyone else that day, opted for the latter.

We didn’t even open the tome of a wine list but ordered the sommelier’s suggestions to accompany our choice of dishes. Our deliberations were accompanied by four small, hot, perfectly rounded savoury bon bons, which testified to great skill in deep frying.

We both decided on Lobster Bisque, a firm favourite, but after the experience of driving home from Crail with a live lobster scrabbling about in the boot of the car, we prefer to let someone else do the work.

For the main course, the Birthday Boy ordered Confit Barbary Duck with lentils and morels in a sherry vinegar sauce while I opted for Roast halibut, asparagus and leeks with a beurre Gewurztraminer sauce.

A great fan of Gewurztraminer, the B.B. decided he would like a glass with his soup. Shock Horror! If Sir really wanted it, have it he would, but Sir would be far better following his advice. Suitably chastened, Sir agreed to be advised by the professional.

Next to be presented for our delectation were three beautifully presented amuse bouches each.

The Lobster Bisque was hot, it was creamy, it was rich, it was perfect. Not only that, we were offered garnishes of rouille, slivers of croutons and grated Parmesan, which, frankly, were totally unnecessary.

B.B’s duck was pronounced crispy and well complimented by the slight sweetness of the sauce. My halibut was a delight and, of course, accompanied by a glass of Gewurztraminer.

At this point, you would expect the salt and pepper to be removed from the table before the puds are served, but chez Martin Wishart, there is no salt or pepper on the table. Nor is there a need for them.

For dessert, it was Grapefruit and Yoghurt Terrine served with passion fruit sauce and mint granite for him and Blackcurrant Souffle for me. The terrine looked like a beautiful piece of jewellery and the flavour was intense. I find soufflés irresistible and this one was a plump pillow of perfection.

If you are a cheese lover, I would recommend you choose from the cheese trolley. You’ll be spoiled for choice and your eyes will be out on stalks.

Birthday Boy ordered coffee and I was more than happy to help him out with the nine delicious petit fours which accompanied it. The selection included nougat, cognac truffles, passion fruit truffles and hazelnut truffles.

If you want to be utterly spoiled by thoroughly professional staff while enjoying top notch food, head for Leith in plenty of time to find a parking space.

Venue: Restaurant Martin Wishart, Leith

Food: A classy mix of French and Scottish.

Price: £53.95 for two, three course lunches, plus one coffee. For drinks – just think of the old adage: “If you have to ask, you can’t afford it.”

Décor: Elegant and subtle.

Service: As good as it gets.